Quality Assessment of Textiles (2° Éd., 2nd ed. 2003. Softcover reprint of the original 2nd ed. 2003) Damage Detection by Microscopy

The damage that can occur in certain fibrous raw materials or in textiles during their production and storage of textiles is expertly described in this book by Karl Mahall. In particular, he explains methods for finding concealed textile defects by using microscopic analysis. Besides minor improvements and corrections, the new edition contains a new chapter "Poultry Feathers as Filling Material for Bedding and Textiles - Analysis of Faults." The reason for its inclusion is that natural feathers and down are not only used as a filling material for bedding but also for garments, such as a- noraks, coats and sleeping bags. This book is especially useful as a manual for both chemical and textile engineers and quality engineers. It is also a useful reference for others in the textile industry in general.

1 Fundamentals and Priming.- 1.1 Necessary Equipment.- 1.2 Preliminary Examination of Textile Test Material.- 1.3 Classical Examination Methods.- 1.4 Preparation of Negative Imprints with the Size of Microscope Slides.- 1.5 Preparation of Negative Imprints of Fibers and Yarns on Thermoplastic Films.- 1.6 Imprints of Larger Areas.- 1.6.1 Detection of Dyeing Unlevelness with the Aid of the Replication Method — Practical Example.- 1.6.2 Detection of Oil and/or Grease Soiling on Textile Fabrics.- 1.6.3 Detection of Structural Defects — Practical Example.- 1.6.4 Summarizing Evaluation of Large Imprints.- 1.7 Microtome Sections.- 2 Chemical Damage.- 2.1 Chemical Damage to Wool.- 2.1.1 The Pauly Reaction.- 2.1.2 Alkaline Damage to Wool and Wool-Like Natural Fibers.- 2.1.2.1 Dye Unlevelness in Wool Tops Made of Alkaline Damaged Wool — Practical Example.- 2.1.2.2 Strength Loss in Wool, Caused by Alkalinely Reacting Untreated Yarn — Practical Example.- 2.1.2.3 Dye Stains on Polyester/Wool Due to Local Alkaline Damage to the Wool — Practical Example.- 2.1.2.4 Limits of the Pauly Reaction — Strong Alkaline Damage.- 2.1.3 Acid Damage to Wool.- 2.1.4 Chlorine Damage to Wool.- 2.1.4.1 Chlorination of a Wool Carpet (Gold Afghan), Increase of Luster, Gold Effects — Practical Example.- 2.1.4.2 Chlorination of Wool in the Non-Felting Finish.- 2.2 Chemical Damage to Silk.- 2.2.1 Chemical Composition, Structure and Microscopy of Silk.- 2.2.2 Detection of Chemical Damage to Silk with Pauly Reagent.- 2.2.3 Control of the Degumming Effect.- 2.3 Chemical Damage to Cotton.- 2.3.1 Microscopy of Cotton.- 2.3.2 Detection of Oxycellulose and Hydrocellulose.- 2.3.3 Bleaching Damage Due to Catalysts.- 2.3.4 Different Phenomena of Catalytic Bleaching Damage.- 2.3.4.1 Holes and Tears in a Bleached Cotton Fabric — Practical Example.- 2.3.4.2 Small Holes in a Bleached Cotton Fabric — Practical Example.- 2.4 Chemical Damage to Synthetics.- 2.4.1 Acid Damage to Polyamide Knitwear — Practical Example.- 2.4.2 Detection of Acid-Damaged Polyamide Fibers by Means of Imprints — Practical Example.- 2.4.3 Acid Damage to Polyamide Stockings — Practical Example.- 2.4.4 Polyester Fabric with Acid Damage — Practical Example.- 2.4.5 Detection of Saponified Acetate Fibers.- 3 Mechanical Damage.- 3.1 Mechanical Damage to Wool.- 3.1.1 Mechanical Damage to a Blended Fabric Due to Abrasion on the Winch — Practical Example.- 3.1.2 Light Streaks and Stains on a Wool Fabric — Practical Example.- 3.1.3 Light Stains on a Wool Cloth Caused by Mechanical Damage During Shearing — Practical Example.- 3.1.4 Mechanical Damage Caused by Tearing Wool, Comparison with Recovered Wool.- 3.1.5 Mechanical Damage to Wool Fibers Caused by Wool Pests.- 3.2 Mechanical Damage to Silk.- 3.3 Mechanical Damage to Cotton.- 3.3.1 Light Streaks on a Black-Dyed Poplin Fabric — Practical Example.- 3.3.2 Mechanical Damage to a Feather Bed Ticking — Practical Example.- 3.3.3 Graying of a Dyed Cotton Fabric After Extended Use.- 3.3.4 Mechanically Damaged Cotton Threads of an Oriental Carpet — Practical Example.- 3.3.5 Darker Colored Streaks Due to Squashed Cotton Fibers — Practical Example.- 3.3.6 Crease Marks.- 3.4 Mechanical Damage to Cellulose Regenerated Fibers Graying During Dyeing on the Winch — Practical Example.- 3.5 Mechanical Damage to Synthetic Fibers.- 3.5.1 Graying of a Carpet Made of Acrylic Fibers — Practical Example.- 3.5.2 Graying of a Napped Blanket Material Made of Acrylic Fibers — Practical Example.- 4 Thermal and Thermo-Mechanical Damage to Synthetics.- 4.1 Thermal Damage Caused by Direct Heat.- 4.1.1 Thermal Deformation of Synthetic Fibers During Setting.- 4.1.2 Weft Streaks in a Fabric Made of Polyester/Wool After Setting — Practical Example.- 4.1.3 Graying in a Woven Fur Made of Polyvinyl Chloride and Acrylic Fibers After Drying — Practical Example.- 4.1.4 Thermal Deformations During Texturizing.- 4.1.5 Light Stains on a Printed Cotton Fabric Due to Melted, Flat-Rolled Polypropylene Fibers — Practical Example.- 4.1.6 Singeing Damage to Synthetic Fibers.- 4.1.6.1 Dark Stains on a Gabardine Fabric After Singeing and Dyeing — Practical Example.- 4.1.6.2 Stain Formation and Film-Like Coating Due to Thermally Deformed, Flat-Rolled Polyester Fibers — Practical Example.- 4.1.6.3 Streaks and Stains on a Singed Fabric Made of Polyester/Viscose Staple — Practical Example.- 4.1.6.4 Strength Loss After Singeing Due to Melting of Polyester Fibers — Practical Example.- 4.1.6.5 Streakiness After Singeing and Dyeing Due to Melted, Darker Dyed Polyamide Fibers — Practical Example.- 4.1.7 Damage Caused by Ironing.- 4.1.7. 1 Light Stains on a Fabric Made of Polyester/Wool Caused by Ironing — Practical Example.- 4.2 Thermal Deformation of Synthetic Fibers Due to Frictional Heat.- 4.2.1 Streaks in a Piece of Knitwear Caused by Acrylic Fibers with Thermo-Mechanical Damage — Practical Example.- 4.2.2 Graying on a Dyed Acrylic Yarn — Practical Example.- 4.2.3 Light Patches on a Sewing Thread Made of Polyester Due to Thermo-Mechanical Damage — Practical Example.- 4.2.4 Thermal Deformation of Polyester Fibers as a Result of Excessive Spinning Speeds — Practical Example.- 4.2.5 Fiber Dust Formation During Twisting of a Polyester/Cotton Yarn — Practical Example.- 4.2.6 Bar Formation Due to Polyester Fibers with Thermo-Mechanical Damage in a Fabric Made of Polyester/Wool — Practical Example.- 4.3 Thermal Damage to Synthetic Fibers due to Impact.- 4.3.1 Lighter Yarn Areas Due to “Shuttle Marks” on a Fabric Made of Acrylic Fibers - Practical Example.- 4.3.2 Light Streaks in a Black-Dyed Polyester Fabric Due to “Warp Splashes” — Practical Example.- 4.3.3 White Streaks in a Polyester/Acrylic Fabric Caused by “Warp Splashes” — Practical Example.- 4.4 Thermal Deformation of Synthetic Fibers Due to Cutting, Punching and Sewing.- 4.4.1 Thermally Bonded Cut Ends in Polyamide Short Staple.- 4.4.2 Streak Formation in a Plush Fabric Made of Acrylic Fibers — Practical Example.- 4.4.3 Streak Formation in a Velour Carpet Made of Polyamide — Practical Example.- 4.4.4 Streak Formation in a Velour Carpet Made of Polypropylene — Practical Example.- 4.4.5 Bonding of Punched Pieces of a Knitted Fabric Made of Polyamide — Practical Example.- 4.4.6 Detection of Cutting Defects on Polyester Fibers Through Dyeing of the Cut Ends.- 5 Streaks and Bars in Textile Fabrics Due to Yarn Differences and Technological Reasons.- 5.1 Streaks Due to Variations in the Yarn Volume or Yarn Count.- 5.1.1 Streaks Parallel to the Threads in a Viscose Staple Fabric — Practical Example.- 5.1.2 Warp-Streaky Twill Due to Differences in the Yarn Count — Practical Example.- 5.1.3 Streak Formation in a Tubular Knitted Fabric, Made of Mercerized Cotton Yarn, Due to Differences in the Twisting Effects — Practical Example.- 5.1.4 Streaks and Bars in Cotton Fabrics Due to Varying Hairiness of the Weft Yarn — Practical Example.- 5.1.5 Streak Formation Due to Differently Twisted Mouliné Yarns — Practical Example.- 5.1.6 Warp Streakiness in a Polyester/Wool Fabric Due to Differences in Yarn Twist — Practical Example.- 5.1.7 Streakiness in a Piece of Knitted Fabric Made of Bulked Acrylic Yarn Due to Differences in Volume and/or in Bulking — Practical Example.- 5.2 Streaks and Bars Parallel to Threads Due to Yarn Mixture Errors.- 5.2.1 Dark Weft Bar in a Cotton Fabric After Dyeing — Practical Example.- 5.2.2 Weft Bars in a Fabric Made of Wool/Viscose Staple — Practical Example.- 5.2.3 Streaks in an Acrylic Fiber Fabric Due to Yarns of Different Origin — Practical Example.- 5.2.4 Warp Streaks in Polyamide Fabrics Due to Yarn Mixture Errors — Practical Example.- 5.2.5 Dye Unlevelness in Cotton Pieces due to Yarns Manufactured According to Different Spinning Processes — Practical Example.- 5.2.6 Warp Streaks and Bars Due to Yarns of Different Cotton Origin — Practical Example.- 5.2.7 Warp Streaks in a Black-Dyed Wool Fabric — Practical Example.- 5.2.8 Color Differences and Streaks in Ribbons Made of Secondary Acetate from Different Spinning Lots — Practical Example.- 5.3 Streak and Bar Formation Due to Other Yarn-Related Influences.- 5.3.1 Streaks Due to Incorrect Mercerization — Practical Example.- 5.3.2 Streaks Due to Differences in the Blend — Practical Example.- 5.3.3 Weft Streaks in a Polyamide Fabric Due to Absence of Protective Twist — Practical Example.- 5.3.4 Warp Streaks Due to Incorrect Texturing — Practical Example.- 5.4 Streaks in Pile Goods.- 5.4.1 Streaks Parallel to the Threads in a Tufted Carpet Made of Pure Wool, Caused by a Deeper Set Tuft Row — Practical Example.- 5.4.2 Streaks Parallel to the Threads in a Tufted Carpet Made of Pure Wool Due to Different Needling — Practical Example.- 5.4.3 Streak Formation in a Woven Wall-to-Wall Carpet Due to Yarn Differences — Practical Example.- 5.4.4 Streaks and Bars in Cotton Velvet Due to Differences in the Twisting of the Pile Yarns — Practical Example.- 5.4.5 Streakiness in a Viscose Staple Plush Due to Yarn Differences — Practical Example.- 6 Causes of the Formation of Tight Threads and Their Effects.- 6.1 Tight Threads in Wool Fabrics Caused by Uneven Yarn Moisture.- 6.1.1 Tight Picks in Wool Fabrics — Practical Example.- 6.1.2 Tight Threads in the Warp of a Wool Fabric — Practical Example.- 6.2 Tight Picks in a Fabric Made of Viscose-Practical Example.- 6.3 Tight Threads Caused by Different Yarn Twist — Practical Example.- 7 Defects Caused by Deposits and Encrustations on the Fiber Material.- 7.1 Detection of Oil, Grease, Paraffin or Wax Deposits by Means of Dyeing with Oil-Soluble Dyes.- 7.1.1 Dye Resisting Effects of a Polyamide Fabric — Practical Example.- 7.1.2 Warp Streakiness in a Lining Material Caused by Failure to Adequately Wash Out the Spin Finish — Practical Example.- 7.1.3 Streaks in Fulled Wool Fabrics Due to Differences in the Fiber Lubricant Pick-Up — Practical Example.- 7.1.4 Detection of Oil and/or Grease Soiling on Polyester.- 7.2 Detection of Oil, Grease, Wax and Paraffin Deposits by Means of Film Imprints.- 7.2.1 Light Stains Caused by Oil Soiling in a Wool Fabric After Dyeing — Practical Example.- 7.2.2 Reserved Areas Due to Oil Soiling in a Cotton Fabric — Practical Example.- 7.2.3 Streak Formation in Knitwear Caused by Uneven Paraffination — Practical Example.- 7.3 Detection ofPigment Deposits on Imprints.- 7.3.1 Reserved Areas in a Polyester/Cotton Fabric Due to Resin Deposits — Practical Example.- 7.3.2 Stain Formation Caused by Lime Deposits on Polyester Knitwear — Practical Example.- 7.3.3 Pigment Soiling on a Played Yarn Made of Acrylic Fibers — Practical Example.- 7.3.4 Speck-Like Dark Stains on a Cotton Fabric Caused by Undissolved Dye Particles — Practical Example.- 7.3.5 Graying and Light Stains on a Polyester Fabric Due to Oligomer Deposits — Practical Example.- 7.4 Detection of Film-Forming Products and Film-Like Deposits by Means of Imprints.- 7.2.1 Light Stains Caused by Oil Soiling in a Wool Fabric After Dyeing — Practical Example.- 7.2.2 Reserved Areas Due to Oil Soiling in a Cotton Fabric — Practical Example.- 7.2.3 Streak Formation in Knitwear Caused by Uneven Paraffination — PracticalExample.- 7.3 Detection ofPigment Deposits onImprints.- 7.3.1 Reserved Areas in a Polyester/Cotton Fabric Due to Resin Deposits — Practical Example.- 7.3.2 Stain Formation Caused by Lime Deposits on Polyester Knitwear — Practical Example.- 7.3.3 Pigment Soiling on a Plaved Yarn Made of Acrvlic Fibers.- 7.4.4 Deposits of Sizing Agent on the Weft Yarns of a Polyester/Cotton Fabric — Practical Example.- 7.5 Detection of Deposits in Staining Tests, Yarn Cross-Sections and/or Fabric Cross-Sections.- 7.5.1 Evaluation of Sizing Agent Distribution on Yarn Cross-Sections by Staining of the Starch Sizing Agent with Iodine Solution.- 7.5.2 Oversized Warp Threads — Practical Example.- 7.5.3 Detection of Durable Antistatics by Staining.- 7.5.4 Black Specks in a Polyester Curtain Fabric After Bleaching — Practical Example.- 8 Other Defects in the Quality of Textiles.- 8.1 Skittery Dyed Wool Yarn — Practical Example.- 8.2 Uneven Wool Printing — Practical Example.- 8.3 Small Light Spots Caused by Trapped Air Bubbles During the Dyeing of Wound Packages.- 8.4 Dye Unlevelness in Polyester Knitwear Caused by Water Drops — Practical Example.- 8.5 Dye Unlevelness Within a Spinning Lot Due to Separation of the Fiber Components — Practical Example.- 8.6 Darker Specks of Dyed Feather Bed Ticking Due to Non-Decomposed Seed Husks — Practical Example.- 8.7 Spots Due to Dark-Dyed Fly Fibers — Practical Example.- 8.8 Red Specks Due to Dyed, Melted and Flat-Rolled Man-Made Fly Fibers on a White Viscose Staple Fabric.- 8.9 Light, Undyed Short Bristly Fibers in a Wool Yarn — Practical Example.- 8.10 Gray, Dot-Like Stains on Needlefelt Sheets — Practical Example.- 8.11 Running Marks in a Cotton Tricot Fabric — Practical Example.- 8.12 Shade Differences in Dress Fabrics Due to Different Hairiness — Practical Example.- 8.13 Brittle, Dope-Dyed Acrylic Fiber Material on the Carding Machine and Drawing Frames — Practical Example.- 8.14 Light Specks in a Milled Terry Towelling Fabric Due to Dead Cotton — Practical Example.- 8.15 Bonded Yarns in a Cotton Cross-Wound Bobbin — Practical Example.- 8.16 Knitted Goods Sticking Together in Garment Production Due to Hairiness of Cotton Yarn — Practical Example.- 8.17 Cotton Fabrics With Side-to-Center Shading Due to Uneven Squeezing Effects — Practical Example.- 9 Microbiological Damage to Fibers.- 9.1 Damage Caused by Fungi.- 9.1.1 Mould Attack on Cotton — Practical Example.- 9.1.2 Mould Attack on Sausage Yarn Made of Hemp — Practical Example.- 9.1.3 Mould Attack on Packing Cords Made of Hemp — Practical Example.- 9.1.4 Mould Attack on Viscose Staple — Practical Example.- 9.1.5 Moulds on a Blended Fabric Made of Polyester/Cotton — Practical Example.- 9.1.6 Moulds on a Sized Polyester Fabric — Practical Example.- 9.1.7 Moulds on a Polyester Yarn — Practical Example.- 9.1.8 Dark Stains on a Wool Fabric Caused by Moulds — Practical Example.- 9.1.9 Cross-Wound Bobbins Made of Wool with Brownish and Dark Green Mould Stains — Practical Example.- 9.1.10 Warp Beams Made of Polyamide/Wool with Differently Colored Mildew Spots — Practical Example.- 9.2 Damage Caused by Bacteria.- 9.2.1 Bacterial Attack on a Military Cloth — Practical Example.- 9.2.2 Bacterially Damaged Carpet Yarn — Practical Example.- 9.2.3 Streak Formation in a Dyed Fabric Made of Polyester/Wool Caused by Bacterial Attack — Practical Example.- 10 Poultry Feathers as Filling Material for Bedding and Textiles — Analysis of Faults.- 10.1 Chemical and morphological structure of poultry feathers.- 10.2 Detection of damage to poultry feathers.- 10.2.1 Detection of damage to poultry feathers with the Pauly reagent.- 10.2.2 Detection of damage to poultry feathers with Neocarmin W.- References.- Figures.- Appendix: Technical Equipment, Chemicals, Reagents and Dyes (with new substitutes/suppliers) for Microscopic Damage Analysis.